Here, I show the basic training concepts. This page can help people to understand how to training yourself. This information is about my personal experience. So, you have to be careful to generalize this information.

I use periodization cycle training: general training (2 months) + specific training (1 month) + performance phase (1 month) + rest (two weeks).

1. General training:

You have to work in two aspects; weight training and climb.

The weight training has to focus the antagonists’ muscles and the big muscles. The climbing sessions has to be a lot of movements (not hard moves).

In this phase, I do 3 days of weight training (biceps, triceps, abs and shoulders) and 2 days of climbing. I also include days of card and of course muscle recovery periods.

2. Specific training:

The goal in this phase is to transfer the general strength (gained in general training) to the specific muscles used in climbing (like fingers). How do you do that? I think you cannot make a direct transfer. You have to pass the force gained into your climbing muscles before your brain can incorporate the new strength into your climbing level.  So, I did exercises for my biceps and my fingers on my fingerboard two times each week. Also, I continued to have climbing sessions.

3. Performance phase:

The most important part in this phase is to let muscles restore their new shape because after training, the whole body is tired and performing in this condition is not ideal. But you have to be careful because too much rest can have a negative impact on the results of your training. So, this phase is composed of rest, climbing and maintenance.


For the first week, you just have to climb. You can do small climbing sessions (2 hours) and don’t try to overload your body with too many sessions (three climbing sessions a week is good).  After this week, take two days of complete rest.


Now you can start the real performance phase.  You should climb anything that motivates you. Do what your body can do and have fun during these two weeks. Always try to think how hard you trained and about all the exercises you did in your training phase. This can help your mind understand why the body has to perform better now.


After two weeks without specific training, you have to start the maintenance phase. You have to do finger training, abdominal sessions and some weight exercises. The exercises will depend how strong you feel and what your strengths and weaknesses are. These exercises will help you to be in good shape and keep you nervous system (neuronal spike) active. You can stay in the maintenance phrase for almost a month.


3. Rest:

I think that you have to take a rest for a least two weeks and then you can restart a new cycle of training.


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