I never stop training.
Here I will share with you my climbing sessions:
This year was great. I did my first V13. then My second V 13 lol. Everything is just about learning.
Great changes came into my life.
I moved to Squamish. The best place in Canada and probably in the world of rock climbing. I moved from climbing competition to Rock climbing on real rock. My goals changed from making podiums to figure out what could be the hardest grade I can do. I know that I have the skills and the strength for climbing competition, but how could transfer all these experiences and skills and strength to really rock?
This is where the new journey starts for me.
The first year, I focus on the climb a lot. Try to do everything. It took time but finally I felt more comfortable on rock. It is very different than plastic. You need more finger strength. Better body tension and less explosive muscles (less body weight). This will be my new training program goals! Train for finger strength, body tension and better ratio (weigh –strength).
During the 2014 summer I trained a lot and I did a few trips in US and Canada for climbing. Now again, it is time for competitions. Also, I am working in a website for sport service that I want to offer.
20 fev 2014
I am in the competition session. I only train two or three days per week. My trainings are more for reactivation abs, legs and back. Also, I do some simulation of competition. I am happy about my climbing performance and my life. Now I only want to keep my motivation high and my life style.
9 dec 2013
The competition season has arrived again (20013-2014). I did my first competition. I got a very good result. I continue to training hard. In my program training, I have three weeks of training then I have a competition. This patron will stay for seven competitions. We will see what happen on December 15 the last competition of 2013.
20 August 2013
It has been a while that I did not write in this section. To start, I did my five competitions and I was very happy about the results. I learnt many new technical aspects (mental and training concepts) that I will improve for the next competition session.
I also made a trip to Niagara Glen. It was an amazing trip. I did a V12 and many other nice problems. The only matter was that I hurt one finger pulley on the left hand. It was hard to recover it. But finally, I can climb in a good shape.
The last three months, I have been training. I started with general and physical training (one month). Then, I did six weeks of semi-specific training. Now, I am at the end of the last three weeks of specific training (campus). I feel in good shape and I have two projects to do outdoors for the next week.
Training: general (one month) + semi-specific 1 ( three weeks) + semi-specific 2 (three weeks)+ specific (three weeks).
Nov 20, 2012
I have finished my specific training and my performance phase. Now, I will start a new training cycle. So; general training (2 months) + specific training (1 month) + performance phase (1 month) + rest (two weeks). At same time that I do my training, I will do five competitions in Canada.
19 October 2012
After two months of general training, I was too tired to start my specific training, so I took a week rest with small sessions of climbing. Then, I started my three weeks of specific training. What does “specific training” mean to me?
For me, there is one main objective of specific training. It is to transfer the strength gained in general training to your climbing. How do you do that? I think you cannot make a direct transfer. You have to pass the force gained into your climbing muscles before your brain can incorporate the new strength into your climbing level. So, I did exercises for my biceps and my fingers on my fingerboard two times each week. Also, I continued to have climbing sessions.
After this specific training, I just have to climb and have fun outdoors and in competitions.
This is a video to show what I described here.
Thanks for reading and watching!
11 September 2012
This is a small video that shows the result of the strength I gained. My goal in my next training schedule (specific training) is to transfer the general strength I gained to the specific muscles used in climbing (like fingers). Soon, I hope to show some results of my specific training.
23 August 2012
Après d’avoir réalisé mon général training, j’ai pris une semaine de repos en Colombie. Maintenant, je vais commencer mon entraînement spécifique où je vais travailler des tractions à un bras, des blocages, et force de doigts. De façon générale, je vais entrainer 3 jours et 3 jours de grimpe pendant un mois. J’espère ne pas perdre ce que j’ai gagné dans l’entrainement physique. Après l’entrainement spécifique, je commencerai à travailler mes projets à l’extérieur…
26 July 2012
Canadian summers are my favorite time to train. The hot weather can make it hard to have achieve a good grip on the granite at Val-David, and that can be discouraging. However, training in these conditions can actually be interesting! It’s the ideal time to push yourself harder. Since your body is warmed up by the heat, the likelihood of injury is lower and the volume of muscles is increased by heat expansion, allowing for a greater effort. I like to do general training in the summers. I’m currently in my general cycle (2 months). I do 3 days of weight training (biceps, triceps, abs and shoulders) and 2 days of climbing. I also include days of card and of course muscle recovery periods. Happy training to all!
11 July 2012
I was so happy to receive my Five Ten gear today! I can’t wait to wear the BoxLogo™ Tank for jogging in the park. Also, I look forward to wearing the new Team 5.10® Black shoes when I go climbing. They look so cool, sharp and perfect for hard moves. I’m going to start wearing them right away!
11 June 2012
- I started my general training today. I’m pumped about it!.
23 May 2012
- Finally, I started bouldering again today. I did a 4 hour session with low difficulty problems
21 May 2012
- I went to Baldi (outdoor) and did a 5.11. The weather was too hot!.
19 May 2012
- I showed 3 routes in the National Climbing Championships 2012.
18 May 2012
- I forerunned 4 routes for the National Climbing Championships 2012 (route).
16 May 2012
- I forerunned the National Climbing Championships 2012 (route). I did 4 routes and was exhausted afterwards.
15 May 2012
- I’m going to do a 60 mins of antagonist muscles.
14 May 2012
- Today, I climbed in my main gym (Allez-Up). I did one session of six routes.
12 May 2012
- Today was a very hot day, about 22 degrees Celsius. I worked a V9 called Top Secret. At the end of the day, we decided to go to another problem called Combustion V6 and combustion sit V8. Combustion sit is a very good line.
- Combustion sit V8:
11 May 2012
- Today I did 40 mins of stretching. I get rest to be ready for climb outdoor tomorrow (Val-David).
9 May 2012
- I started the day with 30 mins on my hang board. In the afternoon I went to Horizon Roc. I have to practice at this gym because I will forerunning the National Climbing Championships 2012 (route) that will take place on 19 may 2012. Looking forward to it!