Here I go…
This year, I choose eight competitions:
|Allez Up||Montreal, QC||November 16, 2013||2nd|
|Horizon Roc||Montreal, QC||December 15, 2013||2nd|
|Allez Up||Montreal, QC||January 18, 2014||3rd|
|Centre Escalade Vertrical||Montreal, QC||January 25, 2014||13th|
|Dark Horse||Boston, USA||February 1, 2014||14th|
|Horizon Roc||Montreal, QC||February 9, 2014||1st|
|Amusement Action Directe||Quebec||February 22-23, 2014||6th|
|Altitude Gym||Gatineau, QC||March 8, 2014 (Regional)||17th|
|Delire||Quebec, QC||Mars 15, 2014||1st|
|Altitude Gym||Gatineau, QC||April 12-13, 2014 (Championnat Québec, voie)||2nd|
The competition season has arrived again. I have decided to do seven competitions. The first one was in Montreal at the gym Allez Up. There were a large number of participants. It was the biggest competition in tour de bloc. In the open category there were 107 competitors. This is a huge number. I saw some climber friends from Toronto and Ottawa.
The competition had 70 problems for the qualifying round. The qualifying round was the hard part. Many strong climbers had problem in this phase. After three hours of climbing, I completed six problems (69,68,66,65,63,62). This score put me in the second place of the finals.
Then, I rested, ate and waited for the finals isolation. In isolation, there were 7 men and 8 women, all experienced climbers.
The women started the finals. I could not see what happened but I heard that the competition for women went well.
For men, the first problem was a small dyno. It was nice and a good problem to break your mind. I did the top in two tries. The second problem was interesting, but, it took me too many tries to get the right bête. At the end I got the top. The third problem was perfect and my style. It was a pinch problem with a dyno. I did it in one try. The last problem had small holds with a dynamic movement at the end. I did it in one try.
I got second place at the end of the competition. I was so happy because I had a very good performance. That is good for motivation.
This was the second competition from the new session. The competition was at Horizon Roc. In my opinion, this is a nice gym with a different style of climbing. This time, the problems were not very hard for your fingers but you should have more balance and body tension.
There were 43 climbers in the open category and 50 problems in the qualifying round. After three hours of climbing, I completed six problems in the top 10. This score put me in the fourth place in the finals.
Then, I rested in the finals isolation.
There were four problems for finals. The first problem was easy with a jump start dyno. I did it without a problem. The second problem was longer than the first one and I did it as well. The third problem was the hardest one and I got the bonus (I realized at the end that I had the wrong beta for this problem). The fourth problem was a very good problem. You did not need pure strength, but a good body position and the right beta. I did not get the bonus because I ran out of time. I found the right beta in my last try.
I received second place in the competition. I learned that I need to improve my ability for reading problems. This will be my next training target (reading with memory, feeling and beta).
February 11, 2014 – Hans Christian Montenegro
This competition was amazing, well organized and a good show for the spectators. Normally, I do routes only for my training in a specific time of my training cycle, but this time I decided to do some competition in order to have a new experience.
How many climbers did this competition?
This time there were 17 Junior, 7 women elite and 24 men elite for the Coupe Quebec at The Allez Up gym.
We had two routes for qualification in the elite man category. The first one was a nice route, with different styles, slopers, crimps, balance and technical movements. I did well but I didn’t finish the route. I got the 8th place in the first round. The second route was pretty hard and nobody got to the top. Many people felt in the second movement. I reached almost the middle of the route. I finished fourth in this round. This performance was good enough to qualify for finals.
The final route was a good one with big movements, small jumps and goods holds (I really like this style). I fell with the last hold in my hand. At the end of the competition the score put me in 3th place.
I am very happy with my performance and I really had fun at this competition.
This competition was at Vertical Gym in Montréal. There were 67 participants which is a good number of climber for a competition. I saw some friends from Toronto, Ottawa and USA (Josh Larson).
The competition had 64 problems for the qualifying round. I found the qualifying round too hard for me. The problems were very powerful, with big movements and they were not very technical. I climbed until 15 second before the end.
After three hours of climbing, I completed six problems (between number 64 and 53). This score put me in the 13th place. Then, I did not do finals. This was sad but it gives me more motivation for training.
I saw the finals like audience and it was a nice experience. I realized how finals climbers are focus on their problems and how they don’t care too much about the public. The finals problems were interesting and a good show. Here again we had some big and powerful movements. I believe that Canadian competitions start to be too much influenced by the American style. The only thing I can do, it is train more this kind of movements and be ready for this style. I am happy and motivated for the next competition.
Thanks for reading!
February 1, 2014, Hans Montenegro, Dark Horse USA
This was my first USA competition. I could not choose a better one. The Dark Horse Series is a wonderful circuit. Many good climbers go there to participate. It was very motivating to climb with many sponsored and professional climbers. It was the perfect place to push hard and to improve your level. Dark horse was a good place to see anther rout setting style. And, I love it.
I really like big movement with big holds. You can jump all time. I met Alex Puccio, Meagan Nicole Martin and Ashima. Also, Dark horse series gather almost all the finalist climbers in ABS USA. Then, for me, it was a really good experience and a wonderful place to be. I realized that climbing is not about strength but mind. I love when I finish a competition with more knowledge.
In the professional category, we were eighteen people I finished at fourteen. It was a good result for me because this was the first time in that circuit. I am sure that next year, I come back for another nice experience and to see my new friends.
Horizon Roc, Montréal, Feb 9, 2014
This competition was at Horizon Roc. I saw many good friends from other climbing gyms. And, the competition was well organized; we finished it early!
The Competition was only for open Category (no junior). Despite this, some good junior climbers were there in order to get more experience in the adults’ category.
This time the show was not the best one. I realized that it is very important to have a good D.J. if you want a good show.
In 2012, I was the forerunner for the national competition (routes) at this gym. Then, I knew what was the level required for having a good result. Well, this competition had 20 open climbers. We had two routes to qualification and one for the finals. I did top in both qualification routes. These routes were interesting with a small roof and small dyno (power style).
The final route was a long one with a big roof. It had some solving problem parts but the main style of the route was resistance style. Then, I knew that I should climb fast.
I started the route with a weird feeling (I think that I was not enough warmed for it). The first movements were good until I arrived to a volume where I almost fell because I did not get the right body position. That moment was like to warn for me. After it, I just started to climb in natural mode, fast without over thinking. I almost finished the route but I fell three movements before the top because I was tired.
I won that competition. I am so happy for that result and I want to train more and more.
Thanks for watching and reading.
Here you have a Video of the final route: HERE
Amusement Action Directe, Quebec, February 22-23, 2014
The competition was the Québec championship bouldering. This competition was not too good for me. I got good things and bad things from it. The bad thing was that I did not do finals. The good thing was that I tested a new competitive strategy and it did not work.
The competitors were selected and qualified in the boulder competition on December 15 (Horizon Roc gym). As a result, there were 13 climbers in open category for this event. The competition had five problems for qualification and four problems for finals. The warming up zone was very bad. I tried to do my best in order to get ready for the first problems but the warming wall only had big holds and, no place for chin-up exercises. Then, I could not warm up properly. When I saw the first problem, I thought that it was easy. I did my first try and I fell two holds before the top. I was feeling good and strong, then I decided to change my general strategy (conservation energy and have good rests) and I decided to do all the possible tries in five minutes (for testing my endurance). Well, the result was a very tired climber and I did not do the first problem. I tried all the other problems but I was complete pumped and I could not close my hands. At the third, I managed to do one flash top. In addition, I realized when you are tired you make easily mistakes. For example, at the last problem, I did not see a key foot and I lost my first try. Then I took more time for reading the problem and I saw the key foot. I did my second try and I got the zone hold. If I had gotten the zone in my first try, I would have done finals.
I got 6th place at the end of the qualification round. Only five went to finals.
I learned two things:
1. Never change your general strategy during the competition.
2. Keep your energy high because you need it for mental focus (not only for physical strength).
Altitude Gym, Gatineau, QC, March 8, 2014 (Regional)
The regional bouldering was at altitude Gym. The competition format was 5 minutes “in” and five minutes “out” for five problems. The isolation zone started too early (6:45am). Generally, I think that is a good idea to start early in order to finish early too, but at 6:45 is too much. Also, I was the second climber for starting the problems then I did not have enough time to warm up properly. I only did some travers and two minutes later it was my turn for the first problem.
When I saw the problem one, I recognized a big movement in a roof. I said to myself “it is ok, I can do it”. Then, I did my first try and I did the big move, I was so happy at that moment than I did not realize that there where another big move after the bonus hold. I was not ready for that and I lost my focus. Then I fell in the middle of second big move. I tried two or three more times the problem but I did not the energy to get the first big move. The result was a sad climber, without focus and no top for this problem (only a bonus).
I took five minutes of rest, and then I was ready for the second problem. I read it and it looked too easy for this competition. I flashed it and I took almost 10 minutes of rest. The third problem seems very easy too. There was only a big balance move at the top of the problem. I fell one time getting the top and I did it by my second try.
The fourth problem was too hard for everybody, I did not get the bonus and nobody get the top. The last problem was relay too easy for a regional competition. I flashed it too.
Unfortunately, I got the 17th position (almost, all the position was played by tries).
I realized that this competition format (five in five out for qualification) is a harder job (for the route setter) than the scramble competition format. Indeed, this format demands more sharp work in order to separate the competitors.
In the afternoon, the competitors who did not make finals could do a scramble competition. Then I decide to participate and my objective was to do all the problems. I did all the problems (almost 54). The only one that I did not do was the fourth problem from the morning competition. I won this second competition.
Thanks for reading.
Delire, Quebec, QC, Mars 15, 2014
This competition was at Delire gym in Quebec City. The competition was well organized but there were not many people. It was a good experience and a good opportunity to meet new climbers from a different region (where normally I don’t go for competition).
The Competition was only for open Category (no junior). Despite this, some good junior climbers were there for getting more experience in the adults’ category.
This competition had 14 climbers in the open category. We had two routes for qualifying, one route for semi-finals and one for the finals. The first route was in a big steep wall (it is a beautiful wall). The holds were news and clean. This route was more powerful than technical. I climbed it very well. I did almost all the movements with the right beta but I fell two holds before the top. Indeed, I was pumped and I hesitated for clipping the quick draw. But, I am happy with my try.
The second route was more technical style. It was just a little morphological (but, not too much). I climbed this one and I fell after the middle of the route. In general, many people fell before this point.
The semi-finals route was nice. It had big and small holds, with big and short movements (I like diversity). I remember two dynamic movements. One of them was a double dyno and the other was a campus cross movement to a big pinch. I did top in this route. This route was the best setting in my opinion. I told the route setter what a gray job he did.
The final route was again on the steep big wall. There were more core movements, with bicycles feet and slopper hands. The rout was good but nobody did top and nobody get the middle of the route. I won this competition because I climbed faster than other climber who fell at the same hold than me. I am so happy for this result. Here, I have a new gold medal.
Here you have the final route (video).
Thanks for watching and reading.
Altitude Gym, Championship routes.
This competition was at Altitude Gym. It was the championship routes for the Quebec circuit. This one was the last competition for this season. I was mentally drained and I really wanted to win the OVER ALL circuit Quebec. For this competition, there were all the categories, but you were supposed qualify from other competitions in order to make this championship. For open category, we were 8 people. Some time you could think that is better less people, but instead less people could mean losing your place very fast because all the qualified climbers have a good level.
Well, for the final route. We were five climbers. This route was the best one, with bad feet, weird body position and fat pinches. I fell three holds before the top. At the end, I got second place and the most important thing for me; I won the overall circuit Quebec 2014.
I am very happy with my performance. Thanks for reading.
I Am A Champion! Over All!
This is the last competitions blog for the competition session 2013-2014. It is a perfect moment to say thank to my sponsors Organic, Allez up and of course, FIVE TEN. All their support in many different ways helped me to improve my climbing level and allowed me to participate in many different competitions for this year.
There was a Gala for the Quebec circuit. It was a very nice reunion. Well organized, nice people and climbers everywhere. The FQME (Quebec federation of mountaineering and climbing) presented all the new projects for the 2015 year. The FQME are searching for government support for the athletes and there will be some new politics for the FQME. Every change looks a good step for the climbing sport in Quebec and in Canada. I really hope that all these projects become real. I received a champion cup for the elite category. I am so happy and I will continue climbing and participate in competitions. I come back to train with new motivation, help and coaches.
I want to say thank to Dana Lavoie, a friend of mine, for this nice a video from my sponsor gym.
Thanks for reading and watching.