Competitions 2012,2013

Here we go…

This year, I choose five competitions:

Allez Up Montreal, QC November 17, 2012
Altitude Gym Gatineau, QC December 1, 2012
Centre Escalade Vertrical Montreal, QC January 26, 2013
Coyote Rock Gym Ottawa, ON February 9, 2013
True North Climbing Toronto, ON March 23, 2013 (Regional)

Allez Up 17 Nov, 2012

The competition season has arrived. I have decided to do five competitions. The first one was in Montreal at the gym Allez Up. There was a large number of participants. I think it was the biggest competition in the last two years or even more. In the open category there were 102 competitors. This is a huge number and the gym Allez Up managed it with no trouble.

I saw some climber friends from Toronto, Kingston and Ottawa. It is always nice to spend time with your friends while you climb.

The competition had 60 problems for the qualifying round. The qualifying round was really interesting because there were many different styles of problems and holds. Plus, your ability to succeed didn’t depend on your height. After three hours of climbing, I completed six problems beyond problem 52. This score put me in the fourth place of the finals.

Then, I rested, ate and waited for the finals isolation.  In isolation, there were 8 men and 8 women, all experienced climbers. So, isolation was a very quiet and peaceful place for “rest mode.”

The women started the finals. I could not see what happened but I heard that the competition for women went well.

When the finals for men started, we knew that there were only four problems. So, I knew that my energy level could sustain me.

In my opinion, the first problem was morphological, requiring large movements. I managed to get the bonus. The second problem was interesting, but, I didn’t figure out the beta, and the problem was also morphological. The third problem was perfect but I did not get the bonus and the last problem had a big jump start that was too far for many climbers.

Beyond the results of competition, I think that it is always great to participate in competitions. Plus, you always learn about your climbing. Also, competitions are a perfect place meet people, climbers, spectators and photographers. I really appreciate the work of photographers—it’s not an easy job. They’ve got to shoot in a very shaky and high-paced environment. I want to say thanks to Nicolas Charron and Alexandre Landry for the amazing pictures. I really appreciate their work and talent.

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for reading and you can see the video here!

 

December 1, 2012, Altitude Gym, Gatineau QC

altytude

This competition was a hard thing for me. I got good things and bad things from it. The bad thing was that I had the worst result that I ever had in my competetive career. The good thing was that I could handle the result and I learned something about this situation.

This was my second competition for this season. There were 70 climbers in the open category. The out-of-town climbers came from Montreal, Quebec and Toronto.

The competition had 60 problems in the qualifying round. The qualifying round was not too bad. I did my six problems beyond problem 52. I could not do the problem number 55. This problem decided which climbers went to the final round. My score put me in the sixteenth place. If I had completed the problem 55, I would have made the final round.

Why didn’t I do the problem number 55?

I learned that my training was too extreme for a competition session. At that moment, my entire body was tired and my mind was not focused on the competition. I let the pressure win and my performance declined in consequence. I realized that I need more mental training and I have to learn how to keep trying hard when I made mistakes. That is the most important thing. I cannot expect myself to complete a flash for all climbing problems I do. But, I can ensure that if I don’t do a flash, I will continue to try harder and stay motivated. I learned that you don’t lose a competition until you lose your hope and motivation.

I have to continue to train hard, and do a lot of mental training.

Next competition is at Centre Escalade Vertrical in January 2013.

Thanks for reading.

 

February 06, 2013- Centre Escalade Vertrical

This is my third competition of the season. There were 63 climbers in the open category. This time the foreign climbers came from Toronto, New Brunswick and U.S.A. I met a very nice man, Josh Larson, who is on the U.S.A. climbing team.

The competition had 50 problems for the qualifying round. The qualifying round was hard because the level of the climbers was higher than the last competition. I was amazed to flash problem 50 and this made me very pleased with the qualifying round. After three hours of climbing, I completed six problems beyond problem 41. This score put me in the eighth place of the finals.

Then, I rested, ate and waited for the finals isolation.

This time women and men did the finals at the same time. This format is a good idea because the climbers don’t have to wait much time in isolation. We knew that there were five problems. So, I knew that I should conserve my energy.

The first problem was easy and a good show for the spectators. It required a big jump start. I flashed this problem.

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The second problem was interesting and I managed to get the bonus.

vertical
The third problem was the hardest one and I did not get the bonus. The fourth problem was a crimpy problem that I did in two tries. The last problem was not too hard but I only got the bonus. I received eighth place in the competition. I learned that I need to do more mental training, big movements and plyometric movements. It is always great to participate in competitions and learn about your climbing.

Thanks to my sponsors and my friends for encouraging me to climb.

Coyote Rock Gym. Fev 9, 2013.
This is my fourth competition of the season. There were 58 climbers in the open category. The out-of-town climbers came only from Toronto and Montreal.The Coyote Rock Gym is a famous place for competitions in eastern Canada. They always put on a good show for spectators and have good problems for competitors.The qualifying round was not too hard and many climbers did the hardest problems. After three hours of climbing, I completed six problems in the top seven problems. This score put me in eighth place in the finals. I was nervous because all the climbers were in excellent shape.

Then, I rested, ate and waited for the finals isolation. In isolation, I realized that I was in good shape too. My only problem was my mind. I needed to push out all the bad ideas about my performance. That was what I did. I meditated, breathed and convinced myself to make a good effort. I was ready to battle against myself.

Women and men competed in the finals at the same time. There were four problems.

The first problem was easy. There were many sloppy holds on a box structure wall. I flashed the problem number one. The second problem was interesting. There were many good holds but a weird  reading. I flashed this problem too.

The third problem was the hardest one. This boulder was a technical problem on a face wall. I got the bonus.
coyote
The fourth problem was a roof. The problem was so nice. It took me many trys to figure out the beta. Finally, I started with a toe hook. The last problem was not too hard but I only got the bonus because I wasted my time.
3
I received fifth place in the competition. I learned that you really need to fight against yourself and not the other competitors.It was great to participate in this competition. Next competition is a regional in Toronto. See you there.Thanks to my sponsors and my friends for encouraging me to climb.

March 9, 2013

Eastern Regional Championship at True North Climbing, Toronto – Canada

This is my last competition for this season. I did five competitions in the last five months. The regional Championship was in Toronto. There were 69 climbers in the open category. This time the out-of-town climbers came from Montreal, Ottawa, Kingston and the U.S. I met Dylan Barks, a good climber from the U.S.

The competition had 60 problems in the qualifying round. The qualifying round was easy and many climbers did well. So, the places for finals were determined by the flash try. I flashed four problems and I worked the other two problems. After two hours of climbing, I completed six problems beyond problem 54. This score put me in third place in the finals but I tied with Sebastien Lazure and he did problems 54 and 53. So, finally, I was in fourth place for the finals.

Then, I rested, ate and waited for the finals isolation.

This time, women did finals before men. So, men had to wait more time in isolation. We knew that there were only four problems. So, conserving energy was not a concern. I was feeling good and I was not tired at all.

For the finals, Rogers T.V. Toronto was filming. The first problem was a technical problem with a face wall. It was easy but hard to read the last part. I got the bonus area. The second problem was interesting but it involved a big movement. I could not reach the bonus area. The third problem was nice with a campus cross-hand part. I got the bonus.

bonuel_20130323_406,largeregionale 2013 problem4

Photo from: http://bonuel.ca/koken/albums/36

The last problem was the hardest one and I got the bonus. This problem was the best. The route setter used three volumes from ENTRE-PRISES world cup holds. The problem was technical, and hard at the same time. I really liked it. The results were: four climbers did not do any top and three climbers did one top and the American climber did three tops. I received seventh place in the competition. I learned that I am improving my competition results and I am very happy. I have to continue to train hard and to have fun.

Tour de Bloc, bojan uzicanin 14

Photo from: http://bojanuzicanin.com/blog/

Thanks to my sponsors and my friends for encouraging me to climb.

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